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Really For The Birds
(January 2004 - For Tucson Citizen Outdoor Section)

Stephen H Buck, PhD

It's mid winter - January. It's just before dawn. It's below freezing. It's breezy. Light rain/snow is blowing in our faces. We're on a wooden viewing platform extending over a large pond. The pond has floating patches of ice. There are a hundred other shivering suffering people around us. There is no nearby Starbucks. We're staring at snow geese and sandhill cranes. This is really for the birds - meant in a very good sense!

It is the magnificent Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge along the Rio Grande River near Socorro, New Mexico. Every winter up to 50,000 snow geese, 20,000 sandhill cranes, and a myriad of assorted ducks, American coots, Canada geese, marsh and water birds, light geese, shorebirds, gulls, terns, bald eagles, golden eagles, hawks, owls, swans, and pelicans call this place home.

The name meaning "woods of the Apache," 58,000-acre Bosque del Apache was created by Franklin D. Roosevelt's administration in 1939. Early construction was carried out by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC). The U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the Friends of the Bosque del Apache, and local New Mexico farmers have reestablished via partnership a wetland that had been destroyed by construction, overgrazing, excessive hunting, river diversion, and alien plant invasion. The Refuge has become one of the most important American environmental restoration success stories of the 20th century.

And during their winter residence at Bosque del Apache, the birds proudly put on shows for the tourists. Each morning at dawn, hundreds of people gather around the main roosting ponds to await the daily departure takeoff of the snow geese and sandhill cranes. The cranes begin first in small groups of 3-7 individuals (cranes usually live in family groups of 3-4 birds, 2 adults and 1-2 offspring). The departure of each group is sedate and graceful as wings begin flapping in unison until each bird gracefully rises out of the water and into the characteristic aerodynamic flight posture. The sporadic departure of the groups of cranes continues for 30 minutes or more.

On the other hand, the explosive departure of the snow geese is more of a comedy. It is also one of the most breathtaking displays of animal group behavior that you will ever see. Geese here and there begin to squawk. The squawking spreads and gets louder and more raucous. Individuals and small groups of birds suddenly take off and change location in the flock. They seem to be having a heated discussion/fight about when to take off and/or who gets to make the decision. It's almost like a 2003 Democratic presidential debate!

This continues for many minutes until suddenly it happens: there is a thunderous flapping sound, and thousands of snow geese suddenly lift into the air all at once. A dark cloud of huge birds passes over the viewing stand depositing feathers and fuzzy down (and sometimes other things) on the onlookers. Cameras click, binoculars and scopes peer, and there are exclamations of, "Wow!," "Amazing!," "Cool!," "Dude!," "Awesome!," "Groovy!," etc.

After things settle down from the takeoffs, we drive the two perimeter loop dirt roads (Farm Loop and Marsh Loop) to see what else we can see.

"Look, four bald eagles on that snag in the pond," shouts John Higgins, Chief Guide of the Tucson Audubon Society. Sure enough, four American icons are boldly posing in the early morning sun.

Our additional sightings include hawks, pheasants, gulls, a black-crested night heron, and an American bittern.
A coyote is also spotted sneaking around a field in which geese and cranes are eating grain and plant roots. The predators help to keep the large bird populations healthy by devouring weak and sick birds.

After half a day of looking at birds, we make it to the Refuge Visitor Center. There is an informative 20-minute film on the history and sophisticated management of the Refuge. The Friends of Bosque del Apache is the most successful NWR volunteer group in the United States, and their impressive gift store at the Visitor Center reflects this. It is extremely well stocked with high-quality merchandise.

At sunset, the ritual begins again. Hundreds of people gather around the ponds to watch the return of the geese and cranes. Suddenly, in the distance the entire horizon becomes covered with strings of birds. Thousands of snow geese and sandhill cranes flying in V-shaped formations. They gradually approach to reveal more loud vocalizing as they glide onto the water. Against the orange-pink-yellow sunset, spectacular silhouettes of the birds appear on the water. A very spiritual experience.
Humans, animals, and nature all in harmony at Bosque del Apache.